![]() 06/27/2019 at 04:24 • Filed to: None | ![]() | ![]() |
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Figure a couple hundred bucks for pads & rotors, another $75 for nickel copper brake line and new
fittings, $25 for a new water pump (which runs on an accessory belt, not the
timing
chain)
, and you got yourself a workhorse minivan that can fit 4x8 sheet goods OR seven passengers, for about a grand
and a weekend of wrenching. Good deal.
![]() 06/27/2019 at 04:39 |
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but then you still have a Chrysler minivan
![]() 06/27/2019 at 04:55 |
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Yeah, thats the Bad Idea part
![]() 06/27/2019 at 07:00 |
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And your point?
![]() 06/27/2019 at 07:07 |
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Couple hundred for rotors and pads? Using all Raybestos/Centric parts will cost you $94 for all four corners on RA.
I’d honestly just save the money and use steel lines, why spend the extra on a cheap vehicle?
It may not be a water pump. It could be a bad hose, there are 3 that come out of the water pump area. Even if it is, a new pump can be had for $14 on RA.
My big concern would be trans maintenance records. If it’s been serviced regularly at 30k intervals, it should last a long time yet. If, like most vans, it’s never been serviced, it’s a shot in the dark how long it’ll last.
Depending on how the rest of it looks, it could definitely be worth the money.
![]() 06/27/2019 at 07:15 |
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good morning.
:)
![]() 06/27/2019 at 07:25 |
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Haven’t decided if it’s good or not yet, Morning nonetheless.
![]() 06/27/2019 at 08:02 |
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The brake lines would be my only concern, that and the strut tower tops rusting out. If the brake lines went, the strut tops should definitely be checked as well. I’ve seen plenty of these make it over 200k and they’re still running, so the powertrain is decent. But I’ve also replaced a radiator in a few of these with higher miles. As well as the power steering cooler that’s hanging out right down by the oil pan on the crossmember. If it’s lost brake lines, be on the lookout for more corrosion elsewhere. But otherwise, they will run and run and run.
![]() 06/27/2019 at 08:09 |
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Steel lines are much harder to bend though. And a roll of nicopp on Amazon is 25-50 depending on how much you buy. Relatively cheap for the ease of use. I won’t use steel unless i absolutely have to. Nicopp is so much nicer to work with. Especially if you have a nice flaring tool. This is the one we use at our volunteer shop. One of our guys spent the coin to get it and it’s badass. The cheapie flare tools still work, but if you’re going to do a full replacement on a vehicle, this is warranted. And if you’re doing more than one vehicle, it’s a no-brainer.
![]() 06/27/2019 at 08:23 |
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Budget for a transmission, because those cars eat them for fun
![]() 06/27/2019 at 08:58 |
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paint it purple
![]() 06/27/2019 at 09:15 |
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It’s impractical, but I found this after clicking the Allentown link, and I was like “wow, this is good lower income family buying a first car for their kid” material.
https://allentown.craigslist.org/cto/d/breinigsville-2010-black-kia-forte-for/6921273933.html
![]() 06/27/2019 at 10:02 |
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I have a nice Harbor Freight tubing bender, never had an issue. I usually just buy the coated steel lines, they only cost a few dollars more than cheap lines but last a lot longer.
Something like that would be nice, but for occasional work, the HF bender and HF flare set work great.
![]() 06/27/2019 at 13:10 |
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So you’re all in about 1100 bucks at most.
Put it back up on craigslist for 2,000 and accept 1600 for it. Up a cool 500 bucks.